Seiko SSK003
Full transparency: I believe that the Seiko 5 GMT was one of the most important new watch releases of 2022. A new, reliable and super cheap GMT movement from one of the biggest manufacturers in the world was going to be a gamechanger.
DESIGN
The SKX is one of Seiko’s most legendary watch designs. It is loved by collectors for it’s good looks, reliability, and it’s capabilities as a professional diver. The SSK line is clearly inspired by the SKX, but carries little of the ruggedness from it’s predecessor. We have here a timepiece that is rated for 100 meters, with a regular push/pull crown. In the SRPD series, I think that’s a bummer. In this GMT SSK, however, I’m fine with it. This is not a diver, this is a damn good looking GMT.
The Bezel is possibly the best I have ever seen. It varies from a dark black to an incredibly vibrant Batman color scheme. Fantastic. I also really like the splash of color that’s on offer from the fourth hand.
MOVEMENT
The reason why I believe that this is such an important release. Before 2022, you had to resort to hit-or-miss Chinese movements if you wanted a cheap, mechanical GMT. I would much rather choose this NH34/4R34 over any of those. Keep in mind that this is the “lesser” kind of GMT, a Caller’s GMT, where the crown operates the 24 hour hand, not the 12 hour hand. This thing is best suited for when you need to speak with someone abroad, not when you are out travelling.
BUILD QUALITY
You know Seiko. They will never provide the best build quality for the price. They don’t even care if their dials and bezels line up. I got lucky and mine lines up, but I know plenty of these where that is not the case. Other than this, no complaints.
STRAP
Finally a decent bracelet from Seiko! This Jubilee style bracelet is much better than the one on the original SKX and on the SRPD. Solid endlinks, decent weight and no hair pulling. I love it.
X-FACTOR
Considering the historical factor on play, I think this is a very special model. It will forever be the first watch with the 4R34 movement, and in my mind, that’s cool. The fantastic bezel will also give you the feeling of owning two completely different watches depending on the lighting.
CONCLUSION
I almost never wear my SSK003. Sitting in the dull lighting of my watch box, it just doesn’t appeal to me. On wrist and out and about, though, it’s brilliant, a showstoppper, a must buy.
